Destination Management Company (DMC) / Japan
KUMANO KODO
Photo by Jade Miles
Kumano Kodo
Spiritual and enchanting in equal measure, walking the ancient trails of the Kumano Kodo is a sublime experience for any traveller to Japan. Over the course of 5 days and 4 nights, traverse the mountainous and densely forested Kii Peninsula and follow in the footsteps of pilgrims who have made this journey for over one thousand years. The purpose of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage is to worship at the region’s three grand shrines — Kumano Hayatama Taisha Grand Shrine, Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine, and Kumano Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine — collectively known as the Kumano-sanzan. Kumano is also known for its unique blending of the Shinto and Buddhist traditions, which is reflected in the religious sites that are dotted across the region.
The entire network of pathways has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004, and is the sister pilgrimage route of the Camino de Santiago in Spain. Those who have walked both the Kumano Kodo and the Camino de Santiago become Dual Pilgrims and receive a limited edition badge for their efforts.
DAY 1: ARRIVAL AT YUNOMINE ONSEN
Yunomine Onsen is one of Japan’s oldest hot spring towns. This tranquil village in the Kii Mountains is as charming as it is picturesque. The main street runs alongside a thermal river, and is lined with traditional Japanese inns, shops, and dwellings. The healing waters of Yunomine Onsen are said to be excellent for digestive, nervous, and skin disorders and hikers can enjoy a relaxing soak after a long day spent walking. It is here that the pilgrims of old would perform their ablutions before worshipping and paying their respects at Kumano Hongu Taisha.
DAY 3: UKEGAWA TO KOGUCHI (KOGUMOTORI-GOE)
Take a bus to Ukegawa in preparation for the next leg of the journey. The hike then follows the Kogumotori-goe path to Koguchi. You will cover around 13 km over 4.5-6 hours. There are no restaurants along the route so be sure to bring water, lunch, and snacks. There is a convenience store near the trailhead where you can buy what you need before setting off. You will find plenty of picturesque spots — such as the Sakura-jaya Teahouse Remains — to stop for breaks and to take in the stunning views. The trail has some gentle ups and downs as well as some lovely ridge-walking sections.
DAY 2: YUNOMINE ONSEN TO HONGU
Leave Yunomine Onsen behind and head for Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of Kumano’s three grand shrines. As the head shrine of over three thousand shrines in the area, you will find that all roads lead here. Hongu is home to Japan’s largest torii gate. Made of steel, it stands 33.9 metres in height and 42 metres wide, and weighs 172 tons. On clear days sunlight will stream through the swaying treetops as brooks babble and birds chirp in the background as you walk the forested paths. Breathe in the fresh air and enjoy this time immersed in this magnificent primeval forest.
DAY 4: KOGUCHI TO NACHISAN (OGUMOTORI-GOE)
Nachisan is a mountain town where Buddhism and Shintoism have co-existed in harmony for centuries. This is your final destination. Kumano Nachi Taisha is one of Kumano’s three grand shrines, and is located beside Nachi Falls, the tallest waterfall in Japan with a vertical drop of 133 metres. The breathtaking waterfall is said to be the home of a Shinto deity, and can be viewed in all its splendour from the observation platform near Seigantoji Temple. The shrine’s iconic three-tiered pagoda stands proudly nearby, adding to the marvellous scenery.
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